Sunday, November 6, 2011

Cambodia: Temple Chronicles, Part 2!

You think that after visiting 3 temples, we’d already be templed out, right?  But no, the second day was dedicated in touring more temples, starting at 5 in the morning.  And how can you even think of getting tired of these temples when the era of the gothic cathedral was just beginning at the time of Angkor Thom’s heyday?  Yeah boy, this is the ultimate-yabang moment for us Asians. Hehehe, maki-ride na lang ako sa mga Khmers…Come to think of it, magkaka-level sila ng mga Incas and Aztecs.  Wait, parang ayoko na yata pumila sa mga lost civilizations…heheheh.

At exactly 5am, our driver Kim Soryar and tour guide, Eng Narni, picked us up from the hotel.  First order of business is to see Angkor Wat before sunrise.

Angkor Wat, one of the biggest religious monuments in the world.  The stunning base relief, massive towers and huge entrance will simply awe you in every sense.  I have always wanted to see the Angkor Wat for as long as I can remember and I’m glad A finally decided to go.

To get into the temple complex, you will have to cross the moat.  You will no doubt start taking pictures at this point so make sure that you bring extra batteries (or even extra cameras) for it will be a loooong day!  I remember getting giddy as we enter that main causeway and the long walk to the main temple.  One thing that you will notice about the Angkor Wat is symmetry.  Angkor Wat has 5 towers, there’s one in the middle and two on each side, these two are perfectly aligned to each.  You’ll hardly see the ones behind unless you’re standing off the side. That’s why most of the Angkor Wat pictures show 3 towers only.  Beyond the gate, you’ll see libraries on both sides and a pond on each side.
The pools make Angkor Wat even more interesting to photograph, because you then have the addition of natural symmetry.

One of the corner pools inside the Gallery of 1,000 Buddhas.

Closer shot of one of the 5 towers.

Our guide told A that doing “that” would bring him goodluck.  So, A, pinched away!

on the 1st level, looking up at the towers on the 2nd level.

View from the top of Angkor Wat.

Monks leaving the main temple.
After taking a million Angkor Wat photos, we then proceeded to Angkor Thom (Great City).  The huge area of Angkor Thom ruins contains a lot of stone structures. It has 5 monumental gates with each gate leading to a causeway across the moat and is flanked by 54 gods on the left and 54 demons on the right. It’s a theme from the Hindu myth of the Churning of the Sea of Milk. Easiest way to understand it is…nag-t-tug of war ang mga gods and demons at ang rope nila eh ang serpent na si Shesa, yun lang.  
The South Gate of Angkor Thom

Closer shot of the South Gate

Backview of the South Gate


I passed through 2 gates only the South Gate which is the best preserved and the busiest because it leads directly to Angkor Wat and the East Gate which was used for a scene in the Tomb Raider movie. Remember that scene where the bad guys and locals were pulling down a giant apsara (heavenly nymph and celestial dancers), yun yun! That apsara was actually made of polystyrene.
We walked for about a kilometer and a half and then reached a roundabout where we saw this.
The Bayon!

The South Gate leads you directly to the spectacular central temple of the ancient city of Angkor Thom, the Bayon Temple. Built in 1190 AD by King Jayavarman VII, the Bayon is a Buddhist temple but it also has elements of Hindu cosmology. I swear, nakaka-confuse na talaga.

It’s the temple known for the huge stone faces of a guy with a curious smile. Said to be the face of Avalokiteshvara, the Compassionate Buddha but it is also thought by many as the portrait of Jayavarman VII himself…medyo nagmo-Mona Lisa sya dun. Our guide said that there are 196 faces…kung sya nga yun, di naman sya masyadong vain, ano?
Face to face with a few of the stone faces.

And a short walk from the Bayon lead us straight to several beautiful temples and views…

Baphuon, this three-tiered pyramid temple is currently undergoing restoration. However, it has been said many times that when this temple was in prime condition, it must've been one of the greatest temples of Angkor due to its sheer size. 
Renovation...on going!

Phimeanakas Temple, located on the site of the now-disappeared royal palace, is another pyramidal representation of Mt. Meru. Most of the decorative features are broken or have disappeared, but it is an interesting structure and can be climbed for good views of Baphuon Temple (which was closed when we were there because of an inauguration of a new temple). See the very steep stairs? It symbolizes daw that it’s not easy to get to heaven. Akala ko maliliit lang talaga ang paa nila kaya parang pang-size 4 lang ang steps. Hehehe.  There are pools right behind the temple, and the ancient royals originally used them for ritual washing. 
Not as grand as the other temples but equally breath-taking.

The Terrace of the Elephants served as a viewing platform for royal parties and depicts elephants and garuda (a mythical bird-like creature). I asked kung ano ang pinapanood dito ni King Jayavarman…syempre feeling ko mala-gladiator ang events but no…he would watch his army’s victory parties lang daw dun.
The King’s Entrance to the Terrace.

The King’s View

The Terrace of the Elephants.

The Terrace of the Leper King is a decorative platform topped by a statue surrounded by four lesser statues, each facing away from the central statue. The central figure is probably a Khmer ruler who allegedly died of leprosy, either Yasovarman I or Jayavarman VII. But archaelogists argue that there was never a leper ruler…the carvings of the king appear to be losing fingers and noses and the the moss growing on the statues causes the discoloration on the stones kaya the people assumed he was a leper lang.  So, this is actually a misnamed terrace.
Si A, nag-mo-moment sa Terrace of the Leper King.

Prasat Suor Prasat, this "Temple of the Rope Dancers" with its 12 towers is very picturesque. With all of them lined neatly in a row, 6 on the left, and 6 on the right one imagines that it would make a great picture.  Sadly it's hard to get all the Prasat Suor Prasat in one shot.
A, looking over the Prasat Sour Prasat.









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